The Ancestral Art of Velvet Flowers (Ronghua)
By the Culture & Heritage Editorial Team
In the quiet corridors of Chinese artisanal history, few objects capture the poetic meeting of transformed materials and symbolism as beautifully as the velvet flower, or Rónghuā (绒花). Born of imperial fervor and carried through the ages by popular devotion, this centuries-old craft does more than recreate nature: it defies it by granting it immortality.
An Etymology of Prosperity
One of the fascinating things about Chinese art is the way it constantly weaves aesthetic expression together with language. The term Rónghuā (绒花), literally “velvet flower,” is a perfect homophone for Rónghuá (荣华), meaning “glory, opulence, and flourishing.”
Wearing a velvet flower in one’s hair or on the lapel of a garment was more than mere vanity: it meant carrying a poetic wish, a talisman against the ravages of time. From the imperial court of the Forbidden City to the popular festivities of Lunar New Year, the velvet flower long marked rites of passage and celebrations throughout the Chinese world.
唐朝 (Tang): Imperial origins & “Rongzuo”
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宋明 (Song-Ming): Popularization & market stalls
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清朝 (Qing): Zenith & Golden Age of the three capitals
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民国 (Republic): Modernization & international awards & tragic decline
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现代 (Modern Era): Heritage, Pop movements & Cyber-Guochao
The Transformation of Silk: A Ritual of Patience
Classified as Intangible Cultural Heritage, Ronghua is based on a paradoxical alchemy: transforming the fluidity of mulberry silk thread into a dense, three-dimensional structure as soft as down.
Nothing is automated; everything comes down to tension, touch, and vision. The process unfolds in five key stages:
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Dyeing and Preparation: Raw silk is dyed in subtle gradients, then painstakingly combed until the fibers form perfectly even bundles.
Twisting: Silk fibers are placed between two annealed copper wires. With a precise manual twist, the trapped silk unfurls into a long, silky chenille.
Sculpting with Scissors: This is the beating heart of the craft. The artisan sculpts the chenille freehand. Under the scissors’ blades, the silk cylinder takes on the curved shape of a petal, the tapered point of a bamboo leaf, or the rounded form of a protective gourd.
Brushing and Polishing: The velvet is worked to reveal its deep, matte sheen, which captures light in an organic way.
Assembly: Petal by petal, sprig by sprig, the artisan assembles the finished piece, sometimes combining velvet with freshwater pearls, jade, or precious metals.
Ronghua Today: Between Tradition and Modernity
Long overshadowed by industrial production, the art of Ronghua is now experiencing a spectacular revival.
Fueled by worldwide enthusiasm for traditional Chinese style (Hanfu / Guofeng), contemporary designers are reinventing this art as:
Everyday jewelry: Earrings, brooches, pendants, and rings.
Hair accessories: Hairpins (pikan), combs, and tiaras.
Haute couture: Decorative elements incorporated into international fashion shows.
The combination of soft silk and the shine of pearls or metal makes Ronghua a unique adornment: light, poetic, and steeped in history.
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A global cultural presence
Television & Series: Audiences rediscovered this art through major historical dramas such as Story of Yanxi Palace (《延禧攻略》) and Love of the Divine Tree (《永夜星河》).
International Stage: The velvet flower appeared in Dior Homme collections and captivated audiences at the Beijing Winter Olympics, winning over fashion enthusiasts around the world.
Digital Transmission: Master artisans are now training the post-90s and post-2000s generations. Evening classes and livestream shopping on social media lead to instant sellouts of traditional creations.
New Creative Trends (Xinchao Wanjia)
Pop Culture & Art Toys: Unexpected collaborations see pop culture icons like the POP MART Molly figure wearing skirts adorned with velvet flowers.
Multisensory Inspiration: Ronghua scented brooches combine the visual beauty of velvet with the diffusion of fragrances.
Cyber-Guochao & the Metaverse: 3D modeling, virtual reality (VR) try-ons, and virtual avatars adorned with velvet flowers are opening a new digital era for this age-old craft.
“Working with Ronghua is like sculpting light with thread. The flower never fades because it was never a plant: it is the very idea of a flower.”
